Megala Horafia.

Some 12 km from Chania and perched atop a thyme-covered hillside overlooking the islands of Souda Bay the small village of Megala Horafia with a population circa 300, still boasts a church or two, plus a local kafenion, two tavernas and a thriving economy based on sheep and honey! The panoramic views of the distant mountains are quite remarkable, especially during April and May when the highest peaks are still dusted by snow. Nearby, is the ancient site of Aptera with its old Turkish Castle and even older Roman Cisterns still in amazingly good repair.

3 km away is the tiny hamlet of Kalami with a choice of 2 tavernas and a quiet sandy beach, whilst a further 5 minute drive will bring you to the bustling seaside town of Kalives, with its numerous shops, tavernas and a local bank. For somewhere different and quintessentially Cretan, take an afternoon's drive up into the mountains to the tiny village of Samonas and visit Yiannis simple cafenion. Yianni, in his seventies, is always dressed traditionally and sports a splendid drooping moustache and wonderful warm smile. His sister keeps the key to the remarkably beautiful Byzantine church of Agios Nikolaos, which is a kilometre or so beyond the village. If you ask her nicely and drive her there she will open it for you, but please don't leave it too late in the afternoon, as she has to milk her sheep! If you wish, and by way of recompense, buy a jar of Yiannis's locally produced honey and drink a glass of fiery raki with him, his smiles worth the pain!