Loutro, Crete

Tiny, blue-shuttered whitewashed houses, nestling beside a sapphire and turquoise sea. Sleepy waterside tavernas with rugged mountain backdrops, the gentle tinkling of goat bells and a sense of timelessness and peace. To most people, this is the Greece they dream of, and it also paints a very good picture of Loutro, one of Crete's best kept secrets. Set around a sheltered bay, with its pebbled beach disappearing into crystal clear water, Loutro has the somewhat unique attraction of no roads, no cars and just the odd donkey or wheelbarrow for local transportation. Reached on foot, or more conveniently by the regular ferry service from Chora Sfakion, Loutro boasts around 10/12 tavernas, a few bars and just three small shops and for much of the year it remains a quiet backwater. However be warned, it is popular with Greeks and in high season, especially August it often fills to the gills and although still a lovely place, is best avoided if you are looking for peace and tranquillity. Nevertheless, out of high season, Loutro is a place where you can easily spend a day or so just quietly sitting at some waterside taverna, soaking up the atmosphere. Alternatively, hop on a local fishing boat to one of the secluded beaches along the coast, or explore independently by canoe and discover little rocky coves and fascinating caves. For a change of scene, a brisk 20-minute walk over the headland, past the old Venetian Castle, will bring you to yet another waterside taverna in the quiet little hamlet of Phoenix. For the more energetic, the coastal footpath will take you to Chora Sfakion, or even distant Agia Roumeli, past whitewashed churches and ancient unknown ruins.

For walkers, swimmers, artists or simply lovers of Greece, it is the ultimate in great escapes with the added bonus of a varied and very palatable local cuisine, including many interesting vegetarian dishes as well as some excellent imported wines from Northern Greece. Here too, fresh fish is a way of life and local fishermen often return at dawn with magnificent and mighty swordfish, glistening in the bottom of their boats. Finally, be warned that leaving Loutro can be a painful and poignant experience. So when it's your turn to stand on the ferry, watching the village growing smaller and smaller in the distance, please resist the impulse to jump overboard and swim back.....

Despite its growing popularity, Loutro remains just a fishing village at heart with a laid back, cosmopolitan atmosphere. You will soon learn the names of all your favourite taverna owners and their families.

Getting to Loutro

The ferry trip takes about 15 minutes and there are 4 or 5 ferries a day in each direction, in the height of the season. We can also arrange taxi transfers for you from Chania or Heraklion airport to Chora Sfakion. If you should miss the last ferry, it is not a problem as we will either arrange for you to stay overnight in Chora Sfakion, or you will be collected by private boat at no extra cost. That's because in Loutro, Cretan hospitality starts even before you arrive!